Hawaii December 3 – 6, 2010

Off we went to Hawaii through several days of very rough seas. We walked like drunks weaving from side to side and several times plates and even people went flying. Many of those near the aft (front of the ship) had trouble sleeping when the ship hit huge waves head on, but Paul and I bunked in the middle of the ship and never even awoke! Surprisingly few people got sea sick this time, although many were already ill with a flu-like symptoms.

Many of us enjoy watching the pilot boat and tugs bring us in and out of the ports. Arriving activities usually start around 6:00 am with the rising sun. We docked before 8:00 am in Honolulu, Oahu. Paul and I decided to plan nothing at this port. Instead we headed out with friends, Frank, Louise and Gail to find a bus which would circle the Island. We found it and did just that! We walked Sunset Beach where the waves on this day were not their reputed 40 footers!



Frank and Louise enjoy an icy!


We enjoyed a lovely setting and lunch before finding a bus back to the port. Bus rides allow us to see the layout of the whole place without spending much at all. The next day Paul and I hiked to Waikiki Beach to see this famous place we heard about since we were kids. Coincidently, we bumped into Gail at the bar we chose and enjoyed more beer!








Paul hiking to the bar for a beer!  See Diamond Head!



Crazy! We did not feel pushed to see as much as possible in those two days since we are returning in June for a family reunion with our children. We had left the planning of the reunion up to them and they chose a large beachfront home on Oahu with a pool. We'll go to the Dole Plantation and Pearl harbor then.  When I was a kid I dreamed of going to Hawaii to enjoy its reported beauty, the beaches and the volcanoes but neither Paul nor I ever went until last March. By June 2011 we will have been to Hawaii 3 times in just 15 months – Maui in March 2010, Oahu and the Big Island in December 2010, and Oahu in June 2011. Such good luck!

Our real Hawaiian adventure began in Hilo on the Big Island where we docked the next day. We learned so much about Hawaii from our friend, Kaipo, a student on the ship who doubled as a LLL because of his age, 44. He planned the entire tour from the ship with his wife’s help in back on the Island.



Kaipo, Salina and son

 Kaipo’s lovely wife, Salina, insisted he take the SAS voyage to help him decide the next chapter of his life. He proudly showed 40 of us the seven diverse ecosystems of the Island to help us understand how the early Hawaiian managed to co-exist and how transitions to plantation life have forever altered these delicate biomes. We learned about the early anthropology, archeology, spirituality, agronomy ecology, history and monarchy/governmental transition and how all were related.  And we saw the Nene and a hawk at the Volcano and a Apepana in the rainforest - all good signs!

Mauna Loa Volcano - the most studied volcano in the world!

Kaipo is an indigenous Hawaiian who owns a ranch on the Big Island and has been studying the sustainability of the islands for some time. He continued these studies on the ship where he refined his focus. He is considering running for office to champion environmental and sustainable policies. Kaipo made certain that we would learn as much as possible about the people of the Hawaiian Islands. He gave us the facts, like 40% of their energy comes from renewable sources of solar, hydrothermal, wave energy, thermal exchange, wind, and garbage. We saw the great crack which moves 0.2” per year and promises to eventually break off part of the Island which will cause a huge tsunami. We saw sea turtles at the black beaches, but learned that their population has been greatly reduced by runoff from plantations and pastures. Deforestation for raising cattle has changed the landscape and the moisture level of the entire island. Rainfall in Hilo has been reduced by 100 inches per year.  The black sand beaches and the hardened lava flows marked some of the most spiritual sites like Pu'uhonua o Honaunau which served as a place of refuge to those who had commited crimes and defeated warriors.  If one made it to that location, one could live in peace and make atonement.  All the wooden buildings are gone but the place demands aloneness and meditation. 




Victoria and Louisa meet a friend




Paul's attempt at being  fierce




The black lava flow and the old wall along the sea 

 To think the early explorers who found Hawaii traveled in large, double-hulled canoes for weeks before reaching the place where the smoke reached to the sky. I always wondered how these relatively small land masses were even found in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. The volcanic steam attracted them and the ocean currents flowed towards the islands.

Ancient Hawaiian tribes lacked a written language. Their history had been passed down through dance and chanting. When the missionaries came in the late 1800s they were welcomed, but they soon had a detrimental effect on the culture of the Hawaiian natives. The hula and chanting, Hawaiian’s only method of transferring history, were banned as well as the Hawaiian language and polygamy.

Kaipo took us to a stunningly beautiful botanical garden along the coast. It was not a natural rainforest, but one so lovely with waterfalls and truly outstanding plants. Huge philodendron leaves, multicolored bamboo, huge banyan trees and stunning flowers filled this garden. Did you know that Mark Twain loved Hawaii until the missionaries came and destroyed so much of the natural beauty that he left in disgust?

One of the highlights was a gorgeous spot called Waipio Valley. This special place reminded many of us of Big Sur only more beautiful if that is possible. A local resident recited the ancient history of this beautiful valley and chanted a prayer to ask God to bless the land, to send the rain to grow the food to sustain the body and soul.

Picture primitive bamboo structures atop this rock temple.  To build this temple, they formed a relay line of men to bring the stones from 26 miles away!

The Big Island was lovely and I would love to return and so all this great stuff with our grandchildren. They would love the Volcano National Park, the black and white sand beaches, the sea turtles, the mountains, desserts, forests, waterfalls, lava fields and tunnels and rainforests. But we would so miss the special touch of Kaipo and his strong belief in the need to recognize our connection and responsibility to the earth. He reminds us that Hawaii is not a land of five-star hotels and hula dancers – it is a beautiful earth still being created along the world’s most active fault. Its ecosystem is delicate, like a small world. And only if we make a serious effort to conserve and use sustainable energy and building methods will Hawaii and the world survive another hundred years!

Japan





November 19 - 24, 2010

We pulled into Kobe, Japan early in the morning with a great band welcome, but immigration kept us waiting in line for hours while a meager six immigration officers fingerprinted and photographed everyone on the ship. That’s about 1000 of us!

Our Japanese welcoming committee

We lost half of the one day to spend in Kobe – not enough time left to see the waterfalls, the fashion museum, and the city museum of antiquities. We did accomplish the conveyor belt sushi and one museum, the Hyogo Museum of Art designed by Tadao Ando, the architect who designed the Pulitzer Contemporary Art Museum in St. Louis. The structure is quite impressive, earthquake resistant and has outstanding style using glass, concrete and movable walls.



Hyogo Museum of Art



Much to my disappointment, their Japanese collection was closed and the special exhibit was a private Swiss collection of Picasso, Pissaro, Van Gogh, Gaugan, Rodin, and several other famous European works – not Asian Art.

This was the second museum on the continent of Asia where I planned to see older Asian art, but couldn’t. The Beijing museum was exhibiting only contemporary Chinese artists. They were good, but I wanted something older.

A department store in Kobe has an entire lower level devoted to food - prepared foods and specialty items like fancy candies, dried fruits and nuts exquisitely packaged, fancy and regular groceries. Many items were unfamiliar to us and some offered tastes. We bought foods we could eat with our fingers since there was no place there to sit and eat. The vendors catered to the working crowd. It was about 6:00 pm and people were purchasing delicious-looking foods to take home for supper. Exploring there was fascinating, just great fun – a feast for the eyes and the tummy! I wish I had taken photos of the beautiful displays and wrappings to show you! Sorry about that!

Gail bought this on our Indian shopping trip

Paul, Gail and I did explore some funny little alleyways in downtown Kobe lined with many bars, massage parlors, etc. We enjoyed a Chinese beer in a small Italian place and conveyor-belt sushi.




conveyor-belt sushi


Believe me, this place is expensive for Americans as the dollar falls against the yen. It’s actually very disconcerting. America is rapidly losing its place as the world leader! I think the world will be totally different for our grandchildren, not only because of the economy, but because of world politics, our government’s inability to act for the betterment of our country, and the lack of good environmental policies throughout the world. Oh well. That’s another blog.

The gardens of Japan were stunning. I enjoyed them a little more than those of China, just because they are more like mine – and could exist without a pagoda or palace. Being there in November to see the trees in their fall dresses was special, especially since we missed our Midwest gorgeous Fall. The sun was shining which made it more stunning. We visited three gardens in Kyoto, each with many Japanese maples, varieties of azealia’s and many pines of a shorter variety. Every plant was beautifully manicured. These gardens must be stunning in the springtime, too. One, the Nijo Castle, built in 1626, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The guide told me that the cherry trees are now blooming a week earlier than in the past due to global warming. (That’s another blog!)

One of the garden’s that will remain clear in my mind years from now is the Golden Palace in the Rokuon-Ji Temple garden, in Kyoto. What a site – a World Heritage Site at that and well deserved!

A walk through paths of red, yellow and green maples, rocks, Japanese lanterns and then, the gorgeous Golden Pavilion captures the eye! It is breathtaking! According to what I read, the three story building was built around 1400. Over time, the top level became a Zen temple. The second and third stories are covered in gold leaf and lacquered! It just gleams, especially in the sun! I don’t understand how it can be so beautiful after all these years, especially after seeing the 1000 gold lacquered goddesses earlier in the day at a wonderful old Buddhist temple. (No photos allowed.) They had lost their luster over the centuries. Had this Pavilion just been redone? No one said. It remains a mystery to me. Will someone look that up – The Golden Pavilion or Rokuon-Ji Temple.

                                     Oh glorious Fall in a Japanese garden!





The Temple that houses 1000 lifesize budhas



     

 

A sunny Fall day in the gardens and temples of Kamakura, a quaint small town, was another highlight of this entire SAS trip. Our good friends, Louise and Frank, Ann and Jack, Louisa, and Mary and Jim took the ultra-clean Japanese subway to this place located up against a small mountain that has a special energy. We could feel it as we walked the streets from temple to temple. Each temple seemed more stunning than the previous. The gardens were especially lovely. One of them was set against a mountain and had many levels and surprises as one climbed. It is also noted for hydrangeas which must be lovely during the summer. We saw no signs of them at this time of year– only photographs.



Louise laughs as Paul tries to eat the giant mum



5 story Great Budha in Kamakura

The people of Japan are fastidious! The streets, the subways and stations, and trains are so clean. Many wear masks to prevent illnesses. Many public toilets offer warmed seats and choices of water spray -a pleasant touch!

Although school uniforms were navy blue, almost everyone else was wearing t black, grey or brown, even small children. Department store windows reflected these colors also. But the clothes were stylish, mini skirts, many with ruffles, tights, boots or cute heeled shoes, and great jackets or sweaters all in the same colors mentioned.

The people are so polite – they bow when you enter and leave their stores or restaurants. They are helpful, even when they do not speak English. At one of the shrines, school children were interviewing Americans to practice their English (I think.) They were so cute, especially when they were interviewing Paul and Frank at the Giant Budha temple in Kamakura.

Frank and Paul with interviewers

What do you like about Japan? What are favorite American foods? Where do you live? Etc. We were also interviewed at several tourist information desks and received small boxes of candies for our time. The pace here in Japan was very pleasant – not hectic – and did not have a crowded feeling despite the population density. Paul and I chose to not go to Tokyo – we actually preferred to avoid the big city. The smaller towns of Kobe, Yokohama, Kamakura and Kyoto were more enticing.

One the small street to the Giant Budha I found treasure! Outside of a tiny store were rolled old kimono parts! After exploring the Budha site, I returned there and bought several gorgeous pieces to make into something someday!!

Unfortunately we did not have enough time to do more. We missed seeing a 5-story Swarski crystal Christmas tree at one of the Yokohama malls. Louise said it was stunning! But we did see 5 story brass Great Buddha begun in 1252 and another huge white female goddess built against the mountain in Kamakura.

Back to the ship in time before “on-ship time.” Anyone late gets dock time, 15 minute penalty for every minute late, a policy which keeps most of us, especially students, in line on time. Dock time must be spent on board at the next port before getting off the ship. And then a barbecue as we head into the evening and onto Hawaii!  It's hard to believe we are going to our last port before returning to San Diego!  But first, Thanksgiving with our extended family, an extra November 26 to make up for 24 hours lost during the voyage, more classes and the talent show which promises to be fabulous because of all the talent on this ship!

China

China November 2010


By now, you may have noticed that our voyage takes us to many places, but for too short a time. Our choices while in port are usually way too many for the hours there. And we never want to be late returning to the ship or we get docked hours in the next port. Arriving in Hong Kong was beautiful early in the morning. They have mall after mall after mall right at the port all selling designer labeled goods. And not just one Gucci store, but 3 or 4 of them! Who buys all this stuff? There appears to be loads of money in this city! No shopping and bargaining here!! I’ll wait for China!!



Hong Kong Skyline

 Hong Kong is lovely. It’s lovely from the port all the way up the mountain to Victoria Point. After a wonderful dim sum lunch in a place where we were the only non-Chinese, we ventured up the mountain for sunset. Many SASer’s were also there taking photos. I noted that every open space had plants and trees. It is a pretty city.



Hong Kong from Victoria Peak at night

 Paul stayed on the ship and went shopping for whiskey, and I left for Beijing early the next day.  China, especially Beijing, dressed up and put on new makeup for the Olympics. We sightseers benefited from all their effort. Rent a copy of The Last Emperor to see the Forbidden City in Beijing. And there must be a movie filmed on the Great Wall.

Paul was not interested in seeing those two landmarks, so he sent me with a SAS group of students to Beijing. They were a good group and entertained me royally during those 4 days, especially with their slang and teasing. I helped out sewing on buttons and handing out safety pins and tissues in the bathrooms that had no tissue paper.  After an especially funny conversation about current slang, I mentioned that when I was their age, we didn’t have all those crazy slang words and meanings like, “That’s bad!” meaning “That’s really good!” You know what I mean. Then we all said spontaneously, “How boring!”



Homemade Chinese feast in private home in the Hutong - no heat!

Our trip included a private dinner in the old Hutong neighborhood - almost communal living except everyone has their own bedroom and tiny dining/living room area.  The  toilets are shared and very crude by our standards - squat toilets and little privacy.  Mostly older people live in the Hutong neighborhoods now since the younger generations seek more modern living styles and bathrooms. The people in these neighborhoods, however, enjoy a strong community life. There is no heat provided in China until after November 15, so it was cold.  Notice we are all wearing our jackets, but we were comfortable and the food was great! 


We visited an orphanage of 107 children - no heat and not much food where we played games and painted a mural.  The orphanage is run by a man and his wife without any state help. Everything is donated by corporations and people. It looks like a hard life there for everyone. We played games with the kids who were excited to have visitors. We helped paint a mural which we left unfinished when we ran out of paint. It was cold outside and inside their rooms. No heat yet!  I went home to my warm hotel room and was haunted by those kids and their circumstance.

I have no idea how we could help them more. They are not 501c3 and they are in a communist country. Can one get money to them? Communism these days does not take care of the people. But they finally recognized that their philosophy was holding back progress and they changed to a capitalistic economic model. And BOOM!

We also visited the tourist spots of the Forbidden City, Tennamen Square, the Temple of Heaven garden, a Chinese acrobat show and the Great Wall. 
 



Forbidden City on a cold day in November

  The events at Tiananmen Square held many of us spellbound back in 1989 with excitement for the people and then horrified us as the tanks rolled in. Our guide said that event was completely censored from Chinese TV. The people knew nothing about it. They just talked about the Square as the place where Mao proclaimed the founding of the People’s Republic of China. Right on this giant public square, the largest square in the world they proudly proclaim which can hold a million people, the government erected a giant screen depicting various sites in China just before the Olympics. Out of place in my humble opinion!




Huge screen at Tinneman Square erected prior to the Olympics - China propaganda

 Walking on the Great Wall was a fabulous experience although we did it the royal way – we took a cable car up and a toboggan down! Some of our SAS voyagers hiked for 3 days. Some students slept on it for 3 nights! And it was cold!! I wore layers, gloves and a wind breaker and was toasty warm. The sun was shining - the sky was blue. And the section of the wall our guide chose, Mutianyu, was not busy – in fact, most of those on that section of the Wall were from SAS! I kept Natalie in mind who regretted that she had not gone to the Wall when she was with SAS in 1994. Millions of people died building this Wall. We were told one fifth of the population were forced to help. They would die while overworking and be buried in the Wall.



Excited SAS students jumping for joy!

Beijing and Shanghai city centers sparkled, especially Shanghai which lit up at night with stunning light shows along the harbor. Many of the buildings changed colors continuously. We could watch this show right out the window of our stateroom.

Shanghai Harbor at night

The skyline and the scenes along the route to Suzhou's gardens and temples were all I saw of Shanghai because of the Beijing trip. The freeways in the city were lined with planters of small green bushes – a first for me!



Green lined highway overpasses in Shanghai

Buildings are going up fast in downtown Shanghai, including a really fancy and inventive shopping mall on the waterfront, but many of the buildings are empty. The government is spending its huge surplus from the huge economic boom they are experiencing.  The economic boom is very evident in the cities.  Wish we ahd ahd time to visit rural China.

Paul arrived in Shanghai on the ship and accompanied my sustainability class and professor, Rocky, to an architectural firm which has designed an exciting “green” high-rise.  This building will generate it own electricity via wind power, collect rain water, be fire safe, be taller than most buildings and be sustainable. That means fossil fuels will not be used to generate electricity. Everything possible will be recycled.  And water usuage will be highly supplemented with rainwater.  Paul did this for me since I was very interested but on my way back from Beijing and for Debbie who is LEED certified and interested. In fact, Rocky helped design a green building on the campus of his Sonoma University which reduced energy costs by 80% and produced extra energy. But that’s a whole other blog!

The areas outside of the downtown of those two cities were concrete forests housing the millions who live there. Those towers of apartments closer to downtown were in the $1.5 million range and all the same. So the masses live farther out and traffic is clogged almost all the time. In Beijing, those with even-numbered license plates can drive on Mondays and Wednesdays. Those with odd, on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Friday, Saturday and Sunday are unrestricted so traffic is bumper to bumper constantly. Bicycles are everywhere. Cameras are everywhere. Beijing city has 30 million people, 10 million cars and 5 million bikes! But they do include a huge area in that count – almost 17,000 square miles. I also noticed how the colors of clothing were usually on the darker side – blacks, browns and grays – on the rich, the middle class, and in the stores. This is quite a contrast to the colorful clothes in India and Vietnam!


To some extent, I was disappointed to not see the China I had read about for years. I wish I had the guts to do what Jules, a daughter in our extended family on the ship, did. She took a train into the country, rented a bike and traveled through the countryside letting the world happen! You can visit her website, http://www.julesduffin.com/ to learn more about her travels and her passion, child labor.  In fact, she and her colleagues on the ship have started a non-profit to raise awareness and stop child labor in Africa.  More information at http://www.thesenaseproject.org/. 
Suzhou, China was more like the old China in my mind with its canals and bridges. The Grand Canal was constructed over 1400 years ago and is 1000 miles long making it the oldest and longest manmade river in the world. Paul and I visited the gardens which our friend, Arlene Shaw, had visited last summer and highly recommended. She was right – I loved this!

The day was cloudy, but the gardens were lovely in their fall dress. Each garden was unique. From hills, to waterfalls, to wandering paths, to special water springs, arched bridges, pagodas, temples, and limestone “mountains” from the 1500’s still tell their story. Peace. Sit. Listen. Observe.  FengShui principles were used in these gardens to produce the greatest energy and peacefulness.

Think about those who lived in these royal places and padded around serving the Emperors. Think of the Emperors and their concubines. And tea ceremonies! I do find it difficult to imagine lots of children running around in these gardens, but they must have.

Lots of history to this country. Lots of Dynasties and Emperors and a couple of Empresses. Lots of royal court practices. The old ways. And the Chinese pride of having the “oldest, the longest, the largest in the world ” of whatever they are showing! Other than the sustainability class, the rest of my classes are really coming together in China and Japan: Women of the Royal Courts, World Religions, Asian Art, and World Music are all melding together and complimenting one another! How great!



Alyssa

Alyssa’s Moving Moment


Alyssa and her friends, two girls and two boys, left the ship in Casablanca to travel by train to Marrakesh to experience Moroccan culture. And they had one of those happenings often heard on the ship when leaving a country. Alyssa is a junior International studies major at Simmons University.
The group purchased first class tickets which meant “air conditioning”! A young Moroccan woman and her three-year old child shared their cabin. Although they had no common language, she invited Alyssa to her home for dinner. Alyssa explained in sign language that she was traveling with the group, so the woman asked them all to dinner! Can you imagine meeting five young people on the train, or bus, or just walking and spontaneously inviting them home for dinner?

As an aside, spontaneous invitations like this were often extended to our shipmates, particularly the students, in many countries during our voyage. Strangers seemed so pleased to have Americans in their country and in their homes!

I should also mention the day was the beginning of the Eid, a celebration of the end of Ramadan and fasting, where much food and lots of sweets are prepared ahead of time. So the group took a taxi to their host’s home. She lives with her father in Ameritech during the week while he husband lives in Casablanca and takes their other children to school. Her father welcomed the group as if he was expecting them, asked their names and ages and repeated it all back to them during the evening. He and Alyssa could communicate in French.

The dinner was fabulous – Moroccan food is delicious! And the students learn about this very modern Moroccan family. All nine children are all married. One of the daughters is a dentist married to a doctor. (Usually, Moroccan women are expected to stay home, raise the children, and become accomplished homemakers so they make good bridal choices.) Alyssa pointed out to me that this father and his wife raised their family well. How else would his daughter pick up five strangers and invite them home to celebrate the Eid? They all exuded hospitality. But, as a matter of fact, Moroccans pride themselves in their hospitality. The guest holds a special place of honor in a Moroccan home.

They learned about each of the children and their families and talked about the last daughter’s marriage. Photos of the wedding were brought out. Ooos and ahhhs were exclaimed over the ceremonial caftans. Before they knew it, Alyssa and her girl friends were invited into a bedroom where the bridal finery was brought from a closet. Then, they were invited to try on the gorgeous caftans which they did – with photos! Such a special moment! Such a cultural highlight!

Alyssa and I shared many moments on the ship between classes and during choral class and practice. In fact, she was my “guiding light” alto. She is an accomplished musician, and I am a novice choral group member. She plays trumpet, piano and sings. While in South Africa, a group of SASers went to an African jazz and jam session. Alyssa brought her trumpet to join the jamming. The students and musicians jammed away the evening with great delight. Alyssa noted that the trumpeter’s instrument was in poor condition and before the evening ended, she gave him her trumpet. She had planned to give the instrument to a needy student at some point in the trip, and she saw this musician’s need. He was greatly moved by her generosity. Yes, Alyssa is an impressive young woman.

Two of my favorite students: Alyssa (in red) Ellie (in blue) and me

Archbishop Tutu

The shipboard community has been greatly blessed with the presence of Archbishop Desmond Tutu and his devoted wife, Leah. I mentioned in a previous essay how Paul made himself known to them early in the voyage. Our leader, Betty, was telling us that many Life Long Learners (LLLs) were discovering unexpected family members aboard when the Tutu’s walked into the room. Paul hopped up and exclaimed, “Daddy!” to which Arch ( as he likes to be called) came running across the room and hugged Paul! Paul continued the charade, crossed the room and gave Leah a hug! And me with no camera! A great photo opportunity missed!

This little incident has continued to be a theme between Paul and the Tutu’s during the voyage. When we were visiting his offices in Cape Town, he introduced Paul as his son by a previous marriage. The other night, when welcoming their guests to the cocktail party in Glazer Lounge, he thanked many different people in the room and then mentioned “Paul, my son by a previous marriage.” Not everyone got that, but we did and it means so much to us. Arch says he has never met anyone like Paul!

The Tutu’s are gracious and such fun. Arch has a wonderful sense of humor, obviously, and an infectious laugh. He makes jokes about himself and welcomes relaxed banter. He has retired again and we all respect that and do not make requests of his s time. In fact, I asked his assistant if they could join us for dinner a couple of weeks ago. She said they would have time one of two days, but to keep the talk light – he does not wish to talk issues. It actually never occurred to me until just this moment that perhaps he thought we might, or anyone might have a personal request of him. After all, he has endorsed many human rights projects and organizations over the years. He agreed to appear in the video about child slavery in Ghana which a group of students were making. They have formed a non-profit whose vision is an end to child slavery and they intend to take the message to their college campuses. You too can become involved in this important mission.  Visit http://www.findingrefuge.com/ in January to see how you too can help end child slavery in Ghana!

That dinner with the Tutu’s was another special time like the lunch at their home in Cape Town, breakfasts in the dining hall, and our joint birthday party on the ship with our extended family. We invited them to come and conveniently had the party in a stateroom right across from theirs. Several birthdays were celebrated that evening including Arch’s, Leah’s, our daughter, Kate’s, our friend, Jack’s, their daughter’s, our hostess, Salle’s, and mine.

Our extended family birthday party in October

Arch has given several speeches or talks while on board including the welcoming, the blessings, and prayers at the memorial service for the student who died, the invocation for another student who almost died from Malaria and finally, the graduation convocation. He had the final word on the panel on world religions recently when he summed it all up by referring to one of his best friends, the Dali Lama. “This man is one of the holiest men I have ever met. He holds no anger despite being forced into exile for more than 50 years. I could not go up to him and say, ‘Man, you should become a Christian!’ It is important to be accepting of all the great religions of the world. They all follow the Golden Rule and believe in a Supreme Being.”

After giving a lovely speech about hope for the future at the convocation , Arch said, “I bet you’re wondering when God is coming into this. Well, here comes GOD!” Arch asked those at the convocation, “Why does God let things happen like the Holocaust, the Burmese occupation, the Tutsi massacre?” Because God waits for human intervention. He (God) says, “You are unique. Help me do what you can do. I know you are fantastic and you will be my partner to change the world so that it is more compassionate.” “Please help me,” says God. “Please, please, please,” said Arch as walked of the stage.

The Tutu's and Michele and Barack Obama

I have read just two of his books and want to read more of them. Archbishop Tutu is one of God’s special gifts to this world. And his wife, Leah, always at his side, and activist in her own right, is another. Their children and grandchildren continue in their paths. What a fantastic family! What a fantastic gift to the shipboard community!

Vietnam

Vietnam November 2010


The MV Explorer left the South China Sea and traveled up the Saigon River for almost an hour. The scenery looked much like an uninhabited canal in Florida. Then Ho Chi Minh City came into view about 7:00 am. Already, the city was bustling with buses and millions of motorcycles, but few cars. A modern suspension bridge (like Alton’s) and many contemporary building appeared on the skyline. Soot covered many of the older smaller buildings.



Architecturally strange building in  Saigon


Saigon became Ho Chi Minh City in 1976 when the North finally won that battle of the "American War." The people here, however, still prefer to call their city Saigonand  hold no animosity towards Americans. Our guide pointed out that in Vietnam, the poor people live along the river in the city, whereas in America, the rich live along the rivers. After the city tour of Saigon with our husbands and friends, Louise and I dashed out to the famous Ben Thanh market to explore! Most of the market had already closed for the evening but we managed a couple of purchases and headed for the famous Rex Hotel 6th floor lounge where UPI agents gathered nightly during the war. We were both amazed to be sitting in this lounge in this city – a city whose war-torn history was happening when we were all in college and raising families. It was unreal!

Rex Hotel Lounge in Saigon

The next day, Paul and I journeyed about hundred kilometers into the Mekong Delta with about 31 students. The rice paddies were brilliant green. Gravesites and small alters adorned those fields belonging to Buddhist families.

This Delta is threatened by global warming. A one meter rise in the ocean level will mean major flooding of most of the land and a total loss of rice (income) for much of the population. We traveled by boat down one of the rivers observing the floating markets, the fisherman, their families and their way of life on the river. In the space beneath the deck of their boats, a space about the size of a large table, they live, sleep, and even watch TV.  Their way of life perpetuates itself.  They marry one another and live on the river fishing or selling their ware on at the floating market.



A vendor gving us a tray of fresh fruit



She was so excited to see us!



Each boat advertises what it sells by hanging one item from a bamboo pole. The river market is informally sectioned, oranges here, watermelon there, fabulous pineapple here, liche fruit there. Potatoes, fish, meat, hardware, bamboo poles. Many also live along the river’s edge in ramshackle, tin shacks with relatively new construction lining the streets behind the shacks. You haven’t lived until you have had freshly picked and freshly-cut absolutely delicious pineapple handed across the water to you with a cute two-year old squealing with glee at our presence!





Typical home of the boat people

Morning chores along the river

Soda and bananas anyone?

This pineapple was so wonderful!

Thiel Lin, the SAS student who went in search of Buddha’s first sermon site in India in the India blog, had a wonderful reunion with her family in Vietnam .  She had had not seen them in 14 years. Her mother joined her from the US too. A guide on another SAS trip told how he had been separated from his family at six years old when the Khmer Rouge forced everyone from his village into relocation camps. They changed his name. Six years later, while working in a rice field, his older sister spotted him and asked his name. She did not know his new name. He did not remember being given a new name. She asked about his parents name which he remembered. They had found one another by accident! They returned to their village and located their former home. Their father had left a note on the door of their former home about his whereabouts. Eventually, they found both their mother and father, but never found the other brother.

One of the psychologisst on the staff of the ship had fled North Vietnam with his family when he was 12, forty years ago. He had a wonderful reunion in Saigon with most of his aunts, uncles and cousins which was the highlight of his trip! He shared with us how he and his little friends found amunition discarded by fleeing troops and enjyed playing with it.  They opened shells and scttered the powder and set it off after running a safe distance from it.  One boy lost a finger, but the rest, luckily, were unharmed. 

On our last day in Vietnam, Paul and I visited the American War History Museum. Many of the photos were familiar, taken by American photojournalist, Pulitzer Prize winning photos you would remember. The War here was told through the words of the conquering North Viet Cong. As you might guess, very anti-American. But the people in this country who we encountered held no grudge.

Many of the SAS students visited that museum and were astounded by what they saw there. They seem to know practically nothing about that war. It is not taught in schools! One of our students had never heard of Agent Orange! I did not know we actually broke the Geneva Accord going there. I don’t think I knew Monsanto manufactured and sold Agent Orange to our government.

During the city tour, we visited a Handicapped Handicraft place where beautiful inlayed and lacquered objects were produced by artists damaged by Agent Orange. We saw men and women on the streets with tiny arms and legs, children of victims of Agent Orange. I recall how our Vietnam veterans had to fight to have our government own up to their responsibility to our victims of this terrible weapon.

On a lighter note, learning to cross several lanes of moving motorcycles where a red light means, “Suggestion to Stop!” Look for a small break and just start walking. Do not stop or hesitate. Trust me. They know how to go around you! Like the parting of water as it passes rocks! Shopping again with Louisa and Gail, like in India, was just such fun! I never enjoy shopping at home like this, and most likely, never will. But it’s fun in India and Vietnam and, hopefully, China.



They will flow around you kike water as you cross the street



Brianna, my roommate at the Art of Living shopping in a market











Paul and I had lunch with Rebekah Maley and her 9-month old daughter, Adara at a lovely Vietnamese restaurant. Rebekah traveled with Natalie in the SAS 1994 Fall voyage. She has worked internationally for years. She met her Canadian husband in Vietnam. Except for her family back in Pennsylvania, she could think of no reason to return to the US and the dysfunctional political and economic atmosphere. We did not get to talk about health care, but that leaves lots to be desired if one is Vietnamese. Only 1 doctor for 4500-5000 patients! Other than that, life in Vietnam is pleasant, affordable and comfortable. She has found a good Montessori School for Adara. Things are cheap. And the food is great! The food does not make people fat. I never saw even one!!!

Adara and Rebekah Maley