Vietnam

Vietnam November 2010


The MV Explorer left the South China Sea and traveled up the Saigon River for almost an hour. The scenery looked much like an uninhabited canal in Florida. Then Ho Chi Minh City came into view about 7:00 am. Already, the city was bustling with buses and millions of motorcycles, but few cars. A modern suspension bridge (like Alton’s) and many contemporary building appeared on the skyline. Soot covered many of the older smaller buildings.



Architecturally strange building in  Saigon


Saigon became Ho Chi Minh City in 1976 when the North finally won that battle of the "American War." The people here, however, still prefer to call their city Saigonand  hold no animosity towards Americans. Our guide pointed out that in Vietnam, the poor people live along the river in the city, whereas in America, the rich live along the rivers. After the city tour of Saigon with our husbands and friends, Louise and I dashed out to the famous Ben Thanh market to explore! Most of the market had already closed for the evening but we managed a couple of purchases and headed for the famous Rex Hotel 6th floor lounge where UPI agents gathered nightly during the war. We were both amazed to be sitting in this lounge in this city – a city whose war-torn history was happening when we were all in college and raising families. It was unreal!

Rex Hotel Lounge in Saigon

The next day, Paul and I journeyed about hundred kilometers into the Mekong Delta with about 31 students. The rice paddies were brilliant green. Gravesites and small alters adorned those fields belonging to Buddhist families.

This Delta is threatened by global warming. A one meter rise in the ocean level will mean major flooding of most of the land and a total loss of rice (income) for much of the population. We traveled by boat down one of the rivers observing the floating markets, the fisherman, their families and their way of life on the river. In the space beneath the deck of their boats, a space about the size of a large table, they live, sleep, and even watch TV.  Their way of life perpetuates itself.  They marry one another and live on the river fishing or selling their ware on at the floating market.



A vendor gving us a tray of fresh fruit



She was so excited to see us!



Each boat advertises what it sells by hanging one item from a bamboo pole. The river market is informally sectioned, oranges here, watermelon there, fabulous pineapple here, liche fruit there. Potatoes, fish, meat, hardware, bamboo poles. Many also live along the river’s edge in ramshackle, tin shacks with relatively new construction lining the streets behind the shacks. You haven’t lived until you have had freshly picked and freshly-cut absolutely delicious pineapple handed across the water to you with a cute two-year old squealing with glee at our presence!





Typical home of the boat people

Morning chores along the river

Soda and bananas anyone?

This pineapple was so wonderful!

Thiel Lin, the SAS student who went in search of Buddha’s first sermon site in India in the India blog, had a wonderful reunion with her family in Vietnam .  She had had not seen them in 14 years. Her mother joined her from the US too. A guide on another SAS trip told how he had been separated from his family at six years old when the Khmer Rouge forced everyone from his village into relocation camps. They changed his name. Six years later, while working in a rice field, his older sister spotted him and asked his name. She did not know his new name. He did not remember being given a new name. She asked about his parents name which he remembered. They had found one another by accident! They returned to their village and located their former home. Their father had left a note on the door of their former home about his whereabouts. Eventually, they found both their mother and father, but never found the other brother.

One of the psychologisst on the staff of the ship had fled North Vietnam with his family when he was 12, forty years ago. He had a wonderful reunion in Saigon with most of his aunts, uncles and cousins which was the highlight of his trip! He shared with us how he and his little friends found amunition discarded by fleeing troops and enjyed playing with it.  They opened shells and scttered the powder and set it off after running a safe distance from it.  One boy lost a finger, but the rest, luckily, were unharmed. 

On our last day in Vietnam, Paul and I visited the American War History Museum. Many of the photos were familiar, taken by American photojournalist, Pulitzer Prize winning photos you would remember. The War here was told through the words of the conquering North Viet Cong. As you might guess, very anti-American. But the people in this country who we encountered held no grudge.

Many of the SAS students visited that museum and were astounded by what they saw there. They seem to know practically nothing about that war. It is not taught in schools! One of our students had never heard of Agent Orange! I did not know we actually broke the Geneva Accord going there. I don’t think I knew Monsanto manufactured and sold Agent Orange to our government.

During the city tour, we visited a Handicapped Handicraft place where beautiful inlayed and lacquered objects were produced by artists damaged by Agent Orange. We saw men and women on the streets with tiny arms and legs, children of victims of Agent Orange. I recall how our Vietnam veterans had to fight to have our government own up to their responsibility to our victims of this terrible weapon.

On a lighter note, learning to cross several lanes of moving motorcycles where a red light means, “Suggestion to Stop!” Look for a small break and just start walking. Do not stop or hesitate. Trust me. They know how to go around you! Like the parting of water as it passes rocks! Shopping again with Louisa and Gail, like in India, was just such fun! I never enjoy shopping at home like this, and most likely, never will. But it’s fun in India and Vietnam and, hopefully, China.



They will flow around you kike water as you cross the street



Brianna, my roommate at the Art of Living shopping in a market











Paul and I had lunch with Rebekah Maley and her 9-month old daughter, Adara at a lovely Vietnamese restaurant. Rebekah traveled with Natalie in the SAS 1994 Fall voyage. She has worked internationally for years. She met her Canadian husband in Vietnam. Except for her family back in Pennsylvania, she could think of no reason to return to the US and the dysfunctional political and economic atmosphere. We did not get to talk about health care, but that leaves lots to be desired if one is Vietnamese. Only 1 doctor for 4500-5000 patients! Other than that, life in Vietnam is pleasant, affordable and comfortable. She has found a good Montessori School for Adara. Things are cheap. And the food is great! The food does not make people fat. I never saw even one!!!

Adara and Rebekah Maley