Sunday, January 9, 2011

Japan



November 19 - 24, 2010

We pulled into Kobe, Japan early in the morning with a great band welcome, but immigration kept us waiting in line for hours while a meager six immigration officers fingerprinted and photographed everyone on the ship. That’s about 1000 of us!


Our Japanese welcoming committee
We lost half of the one day to spend in Kobe – not enough time left to see the waterfalls, the fashion museum, and the city museum of antiquities. We did accomplish the conveyor belt sushi and one museum, the Hyogo Museum of Art designed by Tadao Ando, the architect who designed the Pulitzer Contemporary Art Museum in St. Louis. The structure is quite impressive, earthquake resistant and has outstanding style using glass, concrete and movable walls.


Hyogo Museum of Art


Much to my disappointment, their Japanese collection was closed and the special exhibit was a private Swiss collection of Picasso, Pissaro, Van Gogh, Gaugan, Rodin, and several other famous European works – not Asian Art.

This was the second museum on the continent of Asia where I planned to see older Asian art, but couldn’t. The Beijing museum was exhibiting only contemporary Chinese artists. They were good, but I wanted something older.

A department store in Kobe has an entire lower level devoted to food - prepared foods and specialty items like fancy candies, dried fruits and nuts exquisitely packaged, fancy and regular groceries. Many items were unfamiliar to us and some offered tastes. We bought foods we could eat with our fingers since there was no place there to sit and eat. The vendors catered to the working crowd. It was about 6:00 pm and people were purchasing delicious-looking foods to take home for supper. Exploring there was fascinating, just great fun – a feast for the eyes and the tummy! I wish I had taken photos of the beautiful displays and wrappings to show you! Sorry about that!

Gail bought this on our Indian shopping trip
Paul, Gail and I did explore some funny little alleyways in downtown Kobe lined with many bars, massage parlors, etc. We enjoyed a Chinese beer in a small Italian place and conveyor-belt sushi.



conveyor-belt sushi

Believe me, this place is expensive for Americans as the dollar falls against the yen. It’s actually very disconcerting. America is rapidly losing its place as the world leader! I think the world will be totally different for our grandchildren, not only because of the economy, but because of world politics, our government’s inability to act for the betterment of our country, and the lack of good environmental policies throughout the world. Oh well. That’s another blog.

The gardens of Japan were stunning. I enjoyed them a little more than those of China, just because they are more like mine – and could exist without a pagoda or palace. Being there in November to see the trees in their fall dresses was special, especially since we missed our Midwest gorgeous Fall. The sun was shining which made it more stunning. We visited three gardens in Kyoto, each with many Japanese maples, varieties of azealia’s and many pines of a shorter variety. Every plant was beautifully manicured. These gardens must be stunning in the springtime, too. One, the Nijo Castle, built in 1626, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The guide told me that the cherry trees are now blooming a week earlier than in the past due to global warming. (That’s another blog!)



One of the garden’s that will remain clear in my mind years from now is the Golden Palace in the Rokuon-Ji Temple garden, in Kyoto. What a site – a World Heritage Site at that and well deserved!

A walk through paths of red, yellow and green maples, rocks, Japanese lanterns and then, the gorgeous Golden Pavilion captures the eye! It is breathtaking! According to what I read, the three story building was built around 1400. Over time, the top level became a Zen temple. The second and third stories are covered in gold leaf and lacquered! It just gleams, especially in the sun! I don’t understand how it can be so beautiful after all these years, especially after seeing the 1000 gold lacquered goddesses earlier in the day at a wonderful old Buddhist temple. (No photos allowed.) They had lost their luster over the centuries. Had this Pavilion just been redone? No one said. It remains a mystery to me. Will someone look that up – The Golden Pavilion or Rokuon-Ji Temple.



                                     Oh glorious Fall in a Japanese garden!




The Temple that houses 1000 lifesize budhas

     

 
A sunny Fall day in the gardens and temples of Kamakura, a quaint small town, was another highlight of this entire SAS trip. Our good friends, Louise and Frank, Ann and Jack, Louisa, and Mary and Jim took the ultra-clean Japanese subway to this place located up against a small mountain that has a special energy. We could feel it as we walked the streets from temple to temple. Each temple seemed more stunning than the previous. The gardens were especially lovely. One of them was set against a mountain and had many levels and surprises as one climbed. It is also noted for hydrangeas which must be lovely during the summer. We saw no signs of them at this time of year– only photographs.


Louise laughs as Paul tries to eat the giant mum

5 story Great Budha in Kamakura






The people of Japan are fastidious! The streets, the subways and stations, and trains are so clean. Many wear masks to prevent illnesses. Many public toilets offer warmed seats and choices of water spray -a pleasant touch!

Although school uniforms were navy blue, almost everyone else was wearing t black, grey or brown, even small children. Department store windows reflected these colors also. But the clothes were stylish, mini skirts, many with ruffles, tights, boots or cute heeled shoes, and great jackets or sweaters all in the same colors mentioned.

The people are so polite – they bow when you enter and leave their stores or restaurants. They are helpful, even when they do not speak English. At one of the shrines, school children were interviewing Americans to practice their English (I think.) They were so cute, especially when they were interviewing Paul and Frank at the Giant Budha temple in Kamakura.

Frank and Paul with interviewers


What do you like about Japan? What are favorite American foods? Where do you live? Etc. We were also interviewed at several tourist information desks and received small boxes of candies for our time. The pace here in Japan was very pleasant – not hectic – and did not have a crowded feeling despite the population density. Paul and I chose to not go to Tokyo – we actually preferred to avoid the big city. The smaller towns of Kobe, Yokohama, Kamakura and Kyoto were more enticing.

One the small street to the Giant Budha I found treasure! Outside of a tiny store were rolled old kimono parts! After exploring the Budha site, I returned there and bought several gorgeous pieces to make into something someday!!

Unfortunately we did not have enough time to do more. We missed seeing a 5-story Swarski crystal Christmas tree at one of the Yokohama malls. Louise said it was stunning! But we did see 5 story brass Great Buddha begun in 1252 and another huge white female goddess built against the mountain in Kamakura.

Back to the ship in time before “on-ship time.” Anyone late gets dock time, 15 minute penalty for every minute late, a policy which keeps most of us, especially students, in line on time. Dock time must be spent on board at the next port before getting off the ship. And then a barbecue as we head into the evening and onto Hawaii!  It's hard to believe we are going to our last port before returning to San Diego!  But first, Thanksgiving with our extended family, an extra November 26 to make up for 24 hours lost during the voyage, more classes and the talent show which promises to be fabulous because of all the talent on this ship!

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